Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to discover these tales and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
